Shrimp filtration

Key objectives: a gentle flow that doesn't disperse food, a large surface area for bacteria, and protected inlets to prevent Neocaridina (Neocaridina davidi) and Caridina (Caridina cf. cantonensis) from being sucked in (especially fry).

Recommended choices:

• Air-driven sponge filter: maximum fry safety, strong biofilm; requires an air pump. Excellent for dedicated tanks.
• Hang-on-back filter: compact and practical; a sponge pre-filter on the intake is mandatory.
• External canister filter: for larger tanks; use a fine stainless steel mesh or PPI 30–45 sponge on the intake and set up a spray bar or diffused flow.
• Matten filter (sponge panel): enormous bacterial surface, gentle flow, simple maintenance.

Media order (flow → outlet): coarse sponge (10–20 PPI) → fine sponge/filter floss (30–45 PPI) → biological media (ceramic rings/sintered glass). Chemical media (carbon/resins) only when necessary and for short cycles.

Flow rate & movement: for shrimp tanks, aim for a recirculation of ~4–6× the volume/hour with diffused current; orient the outlet to ripple the surface without creating a "storm."

Maintenance: rinse sponges and the pre-filter in aquarium water (never under the tap), alternating to avoid wiping out the biology. Do not clean all media on the same day.

Fry safety: protect every intake with a fine sponge (30–45 PPI) or a tight-mesh stainless steel grid; avoid aggressive surface skimmers, where small shrimp can get trapped.

Useful notes: "too strong" filters disperse food and stress shrimp. In tanks with CO₂, consider light nighttime aeration. Avoid continuous use of carbon if you fertilize plants; remove it during any treatments.